Dry Set Stacked Stone Wall
Dry set stacked stone walls can range from a simple weekend project to an elaborate venture, depending on what you want to accomplish. Either way, these walls can be functional and add some charm to your landscape.
Download a PDF of our Dry Set Stacked Stone Wall Project Guide
Select a guide section:
- Project Photos
- Required Tools
- Materials Needed
- Coverage Calculations
- Preparation
- Installation
- Project Options
- Maintenance
- The Fine Print
Project Photos
See the photos below for examples of finished projects. Click the thumbnails to view larger images.
Required Tools
- Shovels (flat and pointed)
- Wheelbarrow
- Gloves
- Hand Tamp or Plate Compactor
- Level (torpedo, 2′ and 4′)
- Rock Hammer
- Handheld Mini Sledge Hammer or Dead Blow Hammer
- Stone Saw (optional)
- Masons Line and Line Level
Materials Needed
- Stack Stone (see options below)
- Granite Sand (M-10)
- Crushed Stone Base
- Granite 57 Stone (optional)
- Drain Pipe (optional)
Coverage Calculations
- Thin stack: ~35 sq. ft. per ton
- Medium Stack: ~30 sq. ft. per ton
- Thick Stack: ~25 sq. ft. per ton
- Extra Thick Stack: ~20 sq. ft. per ton
- Thick Flagstone: 2″ ~70 sq. ft. per ton. (Optional cap)
- Granite Sand: 33′ sq. ft. of wall face at 6″ depth, per ton.
- Granite 57 Stone: 33′ sq. ft. of wall face at 6″ depth, per ton.
- Crush Stone Base: 100 sq. ft. at 2″ depth per ton.
Preparation
- Please remember to call before you dig! Having to repair broken utilities will cost you more time and money then expected. In Georgia, call 1-800-282-7411 or visit www.gaupc.com
- Mark the proposed area to get proper measurements and a visual reference of where your wall will be installed.
- The height of the wall, what type of soil is present, what the wall is used for, and how well the surrounding landscape drains are all factors that will determine how much base material is required.
- Walls less than 1’ tall should be supported adequately by just one layer of stone under the ground level, 12” wide.
- Walls 1’ to 2’ tall should use ~2” of Granite Sand + one layer of stone under the ground level, 12” wide.
- Walls 2’ to 3’ tall should use at least 4” of Crushed Stone Base + one layer of stone under the ground level, 18” wide.
- We do not recommend building walls over 3’ tall using this technique. If you are interested in building taller and more stable walls please see our Guide to Mortared Stack Stone Walls.
Installation
- Remove the Soil where your wall will be built. Ex. 3″ Medium Stack Fieldstone + 4″ Crushed Stone Base = 7″ deep and 12″ wide for the foundation.
- Compact the soil in the foundation before spreading and compacting the base material. Using a tamping device, compact the base no more than 2″ deep at a time. Ex. If you have 4” of base material, lay down 2” then compact, then spread another 2” and compact again. This may seem like a lot of work but it is absolutely necessary to ensure proper compaction. Wetting the base with water will also help compaction. For larger walls consider renting a plate compactor from your local tool rental store. These compactors will drastically cut the time and energy required for this step.
- A mason’s line can be used to help you keep each course of stone level and to aid in finishing the wall so the top is level.
- Place a stake in the ground at the start of the wall close to where the face of the wall will be. Attach the line to this stake close to where the second or third course of stone will be. Attach the other end of the line to another stake down the wall. Make sure the line is taut. If you have a curved wall you will have to place a couple of stakes to keep the line close to the wall, but not touching it.
- Use a line level and attach it to the line. This level will help you make sure the mason’s line is level between the stakes.
- Use the line as a reference point when stacking your stones. Run your courses of stone as close to the line as possible. Using a properly set up mason’s line will ensure you don’t have a crooked looking wall with dips and odd angles.
- As you build up the wall, you will have to move up and re-level the mason’s line as you go.
- Place the first row of stones for the foundation.
- Lay the stone out around the area, not in it yet. It’s always a good idea to be able to visualize the material you are working with so you can spot that perfect piece.
- Choose large flat pieces to start the first row of stone. This row will more than likely not be seen, so ugly ones work too. You may want to save a few large, flat pieces to use as a cap if you desire.
- When placing the stone for the first row, press it firmly into place while wiggling it side to side and slightly rotating to ensure a good solid start. Use the dead blow hammer to tap each stone in place.
- After you place the first row, use granite sand or the excavated soil to pack around each stone creating a level base to place the next row on. Compact this material as much as possible.
- Place the stones for the wall. This step will determine how the finished wall will look. The material chosen will play a major factor in the final outcome.
- Place each stone on the wall and pack granite sand, soil or granite 57 stone behind and around the stone creating a level base on which to place the next row. Wetting the material will help compact it as much as possible.
- We recommend that all dry set stack stone walls lean toward the dirt they are retaining. This is called battering and will ensure your wall holds fast and keeps the soil at bay. We recommend using 1.5” of batter per 1’ of wall height. Ex: a 3’ tall wall will slope back towards the soil 0” at the bottom of the wall and 3” at the top of the wall. Use your 4’ level, standing on its end and a tape measure to check the batter of the wall.
- Make sure you break up the vertical joints through the wall. Long consecutive vertical joints can leave you with an eyesore and an unstable wall.
- Don’t spend too much time on one piece. The rule of thumb is: “If you have to turn or flip the stone more than 3-4 times and it still does not fit, toss it to the side and try another.” It will fit somewhere else.
- Constantly check the level of the stones with the torpedo level, and how level they are to each other with the 2’ or 4’ level. If you are using the mason’s line, be sure your courses are level with the line. If a stone is out of level you can always use a small stone shim or more soil to level it up.
- Reshaping some pieces of stone will be required. Use the rock hammer or stone saw to shape them to the desired contour.
- On taller walls use some large pieces to bury into the hill to act as a dead man support. Use the smaller end of the stone to build into the face of the wall with the larger part buried into the soil behind the wall.
- Finishing the wall
- Use soil to backfill the last 4” to 6” from the top of the finished wall.
- If you decide to finish your wall with a cap, use large, flat pieces for the final layer. You can use a little mortar under the stones to keep them in place.
Project Options
- There are may varieties of stone that can be used for stack stone walls:
- Tennessee Fieldstone: Thin Stack, Medium Stack, Thick Stack, Garden Boulders, Chopped Stack, Broken Ends
- Crab Orchard: Quarried Stack, Wall Stone, Tumbled Stack, Bricks, Tumbled Cobblestones, Rubble Strips, Thick Flagstone
- Ozark Mountain: Quarried Stack, Tumbled Stack, Bricks, Tumbled Cobblestones, Rubble Strips, Thick Flagstone, Chop/Builders
- Other options like Ozark Mossy Fieldstone, Pennsylvania Fieldstone and Canyon Creek Stack may be available. Please check with a sales associate for stock information.
- Drainage is important in any project and walls are no different. The size of the wall, how it is constructed and how well the surrounding landscape drains are all factors to consider when choosing a drainage system. Smaller walls may not need any drainage at all while larger ones could require a complete system. It’s always better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
- Add a few larger Fieldstone Boulders to the wall to anchor the wall in your landscaping and give it a rustic look.
- For a more formal-looking wall, shape and square up each stone to produce a tight and level joint.
- For a more stable wall, use a little bit of mortar on the back sides of the stone as you are building the wall. You will still get the look of a dry stack wall with more strength. Make sure to leave some weep holes at the bottom for drainage.
- Adding plantings to the wall itself will add character and instantly age a dry set stone wall. Here are some plants to consider:
- Creeping Fig (can be invasive)
- Blue Star Creeper
- Creeping Jenny
- Creeping Raspberry
- Creeping Phlox
- Creeping Thyme
Maintenance
- During the first few rains, you may experience some soil or sand seeping from the joints. This is normal for dry set walls. Simply hose off the wall to remove the soil.
- Be careful not to pressure wash the wall as this will remove the joint material in a matter of seconds and leave your wall unstable and a mess. A garden hose is recommended if cleaning is necessary.
The Fine Print
Please be aware that each project is unique and may pose different obstacles and circumstances that this guide cannot foresee. It is intended as a reference only. Most of these installation techniques are great for our geographic location here in Atlanta, GA. Soil conditions and climate play a large role in how each project is constructed. For example, if you live in the Northeast you will have to use a deeper base material to account for the freeze/thaw cycle that is notorious for upheaving patios. Stone Forest cannot be held liable for any damages incurred by the use of this guide.
Please seek a professional contractor’s advice if you are uncomfortable with undertaking a project you have not completed before.